As many of you who have been to visit us on La Margarita know , although I own the estancia it’s the great team I have working for me who make it function so well when we have guests wanting to make reservations and eventually to staying on La Margarita.
From Susanna and Claudia in the office in BA to Raquel and Lalo with their respective teams on La Margarita it is they who make it all happen so smoothly for everyone – I just own the place as they constantly tell me! However, being the owner does give me the chance to swan around like a country squire in Argentina talking about farming which is really fun. One of my other favorite swanning around things to do is fishing. For some time I have been looking for a rustic shack on the River Plate to do just that so when the staff have had enough of me swanning around and tell me to shove off for while I can head to my shack on the river . As I mentioned I have been looking for some time but recently y I found just what I was looking for just across the River Plate in Uruguay which I have purchased – my shack on the river is now called Waterside Cottage Uruguay and I absolutely love it - heres the link to the little web page we did for it. http://watersidecottageuruguay.blogspot.com/
Escape Artist travel magazine asked me to write about my experience in the buying of it and last week they published what I wrote – so if you are interested in knowing more about my little fishing shack in Uruguay here is the link http://www.escapefromamerica.com/2010/11/buying-real-estate-in-uruguay-3/ - I hope you enjoy it.
This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho off to buy some bait - I can feel some fishing swanning around coming on.
Now for sure Argentina has it problems hey which country doesn’t these days. Inflation up by 25% this year ( don’t worry if you are visiting the important things like a great steak, Malbec wine and taxi rides will still seem as cheap as chips), the odd riot , strikers camping in the main city streets of Callao/ Corrientes ( yep its true) for days on end blocking all routes in and out of the city , the odd bit of corruption in the form of Christina La Presidenta getting out her credit card to buy a few votes when things didn’t look like going her way (they say it’s true folks) and the closure of the second largest airport in the country in the Aeroparque – that one took a week or two to sort out to decide where all the flights would land and take off - thankfully they did eventually get it right . It’s certainly never dull living here and its fantastic I have Estancia La Margarita a a great place to escape to when I need it.
Now as an ex pat and I can speak for a good few ex pats this all adds to the colorfulness of this big and beautiful country – without it Argentina would be big and beautiful but a just little less colourful. However, as all Argentines know all these problems pale into comparison to the really big problem that Argentina has at the moment – yep you guessed it it’s the awful state of Argentina football. Nothing matters here more than football believe me. To prove that point when football clubs here were on the point of bankruptcy and no one had any money to pay for the rights to televise the games La Presidenta Christina Kirchner decided to nationalize the TV football right’s using the tax payers money and called it football for the people – no more pay to view - nope the Government pays to televise the games umm only in Argentina eh ( why oh why can’t PM David C learn from Christina !). It does proves a point though and Christina isn’t one to miss a trick – that move won her probably millions of votes and greatly improved her chances of winning another term despite the death of her ex president husband a few weeks ago( no doubt about it Nestor was really in control) . It proves that no matter what happens in this country nothing is taken more seriously than football – and why not indeed.
Now over the past few years the beautiful game here has been in crises, barely qualifying for the last World Cup (I swear that there should be a steward’s enquiry in their last qualifying game against Uruguay I mean who paid the ref!!!). It was only a matter of time as Argentina slipped up on banana skins again and again before heads stared to look for a saviour (umm or maybe a scapegoat). Now for sure there is no one bigger here in football than of course Maradona. He is god, forget the fact that he has an ego the size of a jumbo jet, is as unstable as the Perito Moreno ( look it up) and has little to no experience of training a football club let alone his country - hey but let’s not that stand in the way chaps and it didn’t .
Yep Maradona was chosen last year as the saviour of Argentine football. One can’t blame the AFA for choosing him after all he won the World Cup almost single handedly for Argentina didn’t he ( umm I thought it was a team game ) in 1986 and who can forget the goal he scored against us the Brits ( no not that one) it was without doubt the best goal of all time - the best there ever was – it is a goal that will never be beaten . I know I know Messi has done that same run and put the ball in the broken hearted opposing sides net a number of times but not with the passion that dear Diego did ( ok he may have been high on coke when he did it but who cares ) it was no doubt the best goal of all times .
With the type of adulation that Diego gets here it was only a matter of time before he was chosen as the saviour of Argentine. football To be truthful many Argentines were really unsure of the choice, after all he had no experience but then err well he is Maradona and to speak ill of the choice at that the time would have seemed like treason. To be fair he did get them though to the 2010 World Cup finals ( barely) eve n after experiencing a 6-1 trouncing in La Paz, Bolivia ( Maradona didn’t think it was important to train at altitude for the qualifier (after all its only it’s over 3000 meters above sea level) and arrived the night before for the game – umm eh yea good decision Diego . Now the thing is that I am pretty sure if my dear old gran were alive today god rest her soul she could have done a better job that Maradona at training this team. I mean he had at his disposal arguable the best damm players in the world including Messi who was voted Best Player in the world in 2009. I mean the team is a dream team – not like an English dream team which consists of Rooney being fit! This is a team that has Tevez, (please Carlitos come and play for Arsenal) Messi, Mascherano, Veron, Heinze and Zanettithe dream list goes on. They are without doubt the best team on paper of any country (ok Espana would maybe argue the toss but the Argentines thrashed them last week in a friendly with the new manager – they also beat Brazil last week 17/11 in a friendly).
When the World Cup finally arrived to me and many others it was only a matter of time before once again Argentina slipped up once more on the proverbial banana skin. They had a dream team but yet had a manager who was a nightmare. When Maradona’s predator came it was in was in the form of the mighty Germans who set about the Argentines like a Rottweiler fighting a Poddle. It was not a pretty sight to see Maradona caught like a rabbit in the headlights. The Germans tore them apart just like they did to us Brits a few days earlier and all the talk of having the best team in the world on paper was about as useless as saying it – you just have to be the best team on the pitch and in spite of the fact that Argentina had the capabilities to be just that - with Maradona as manager it was a mission impossible - when the chips where down all he could manage were funny expressions – have a quick peek at some of his training methods and you will see why!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7KzsiOtjSwU&feature=related .
Once the Germans had had their wicked way with team Maradona a humiliating return to Argentina followed and the question on everyone’s lips was is Maradona going to keep his job. In short he lost it in spite of a word in the ear from Nestor Kirchner to the AFA to try and help him kept his job (see its those votes those votes!). You see football is bigger than politics here and a disgraced Argentine team is just not accepted. A few months ago Diego was summoned and duly asked to hand in his badge and given the boot for a job he should never have held in the first place (he said that he would await in the wings for his second calling – see big ego and long wait let’s hope ) .
Last week the new saviour was officially appointed and it was no surprise that the chose was Batista who was also in the team that won the World Cup in 1986 (not that Diego noticed him!). Now at last the team has a real saviour. As you can a see from the picture me and him are good mates. Well ok I just happened to bump into him and his entourage on day last week and he was a gent and let shake his hand have my photo taken with him . He told me no secrets but one thing is for sure the whole team and set up were very very relaxed and that can only mean good things to come. The next big test for this team is the CopaAmérica2011.
For me it s now time to put a few quid on Argentina winning something, they have a team to die for and now a very very good manager – the only blip could be Uruguay who as you may know finished in the top four on the World Cup 2010 – apart from that get your piggy bank cracked open and have a bet on the Argentines to win the CopaAmérica2011– you will not regret it –that is unless Maradona has a second coming ( umm it is Argentina so one can never be too sure) or Uruguay really turn it on.
Ok that’s it sorry if it’s a football blog and nothing to do with La Margarita but as I mentioned Argentina exits for its football and nothing else much matters and it can’t be ignored . If you are coming here make sure - no really make sure you get to a game even if you hate it and you will see what I mean – it will be an experience you won’t forget
This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho off to Ladbrokes to put a large bet on Argentina (and small saver on Uruguay) for the CopaAmérica2011.
Blimy it seems like just yesterday I was bundling Jodie and Dale my daughter and son into our group van and heading off to Littlehampton on Sea to do our regular Sunday afternoon gig for Billy Smarts Circus. It was one gig the kids really liked since they got free tickets to go on all the fun rides while me and the boys made a lot of noise with guitars and drums etc. Either that or thethree of us fighting to win the most important cup competition of the 80s– of course I am talking about the Egg Cup Competition playedwith passion and bloodbetween the three of us at the small river side park on the Crazy Golfin Maidenhead . Dale as I recall, won his fair share of Egg Cups being the competitive soul that he is – the prize being three huge sticky buns with a can of pop no matter who won in the little café in the park –delicious. Course I have a million more memories of my kids as kids and all great one - I can feel a tear coming to my eyes.Course when I count back the years to those times I realize it’s not yesterday - its decades ago wow– still lovely lovely memories though - thanks kids.
Jodie went on to have four lovely children Abbey, Chloe, Jack and The Demon sorry Molly. Dale went and got his degree and promptly went roving around the world ending up in New Zealand where he stayed and meet the lovely Kate.After a couple of years he went back with Kate to the UK to live for a while but both decided it was the land of the Kiwi fruit where it was at for them. So last year with bags packed again and a ticket via Argentina to visit me and Latin America off they set.
Around Christmas last year after a fantastic adventure they arrived back in New Zealand found jobs and a flat and settled in again to New Zealand life - as you can imagine with Dale now in New Zealand, Jodie in London and me in Argentina family reunions are a bit difficult to say the least – still last week Dale gave me a great excuse to visit him.
Last week DB asked Kate to marry him and she happily said YEEEEEEEEESSSS (in a New Zealand accent).This is a big big bloggy congratulation to you both and what a great excuse for me to visit New Zealand since I have never been.
Can’t wait for the wedding and just to say as if you didn’t know already my son I love you and am very proud of you
This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho off to check if my suit still fits!!
Bob Atkinson and English guy (who you may have seen on TV a few times) recently came to visit us. He has been travelling around South America writing a blog about his experiences - its very interesting and here is the link.
Here is what Bob had to say about his stay on Estancia La Margarita
"With Patagonia firmly behind me, the next chapter of my trip begins, with a stay on an Estancia out in the pampas, three hours south of Buenos Aires.
Well three hours in theory. The journey by hire car actually ended up taking me nearly seven hours thanks to breaking down ten minutes into my journey and two wrong turns. Add in the complete lack of road signs in Argentina and I am surprised I arrived at all. Although I think that the estancia staff were even more surprised when I drove down the long drive just after 11.30pm at night. Fashionably late for a 9pm dinner, although to be honest I was embarrassed as hell.
The place I had chosen to stay at was Estancia La Margarita, short listed from many throughout the North East of Argentina. My boss had actually stayed there and his recommendation swung it for me. It’s owned by an English guy David Cummings, who has transformed himself into the ‘English Gaucho’ after arriving in Argentina a number f years ago. The estancia has been restored and opened up to guests to stay in this wonderful property, parts of which date back to 1870. I wanted to avoid the showy estancias near to the capital and those that looked a bit too much like a theme park out at San Antonio de Areco, the accepted centre of Gaucho culture.
But what is an estancia? Effectively it is what we would know as a ranch or a farm and is the farmers house, usually set in manicured grounds and dating back to when the land was transformed by the original landowners and Gauchos or cowboys into prime farming country in the last century. The Gauchos are an essential part of Argentine culture, routed deep in the soul of the country and summing up the macho elements of this nation. They are supreme horsemen, have distinct clothing and traditions and are still an active part of everyday life in the pampas.
What ewe looking at?
Today Estancia La Margarita has over one hundred and fifty cattle, a flock of sheep, chickens, turkeys and horses. They have their own kitchen garden and much of the produce prepared for meals on the estancia is either from the farm itself or from local sources. You can even milk the cows, ( I was not very good at that to be fair, but instead proved very good at drinking the fresh milk, something I have never had the opportunity to try in the UK. Milk comes pasteurised from supermarkets eh!). But it is horses and tourism that is now the driving force of the enterprise.
My late arrival prompted worried Raquel, the estancia cook and Susana, the General Manager to rustle up a late night supper with wine. The gringo arrives at some ungodly hour after expecting me all day. I was left to eat in the comfort of a huge lounge/diner with a roaring fire. All the other guests had gone to bed save for Luciano, an young Argentinean lawyer from Mar del Plata, the largest resort in the country. We chatted, his English far superior to my schoolboy Spanish and it was not long before sleep beckoned.
The next two days were spent relaxing in the sun, being waited on hand and foot by the discreet and helpful staff and enjoying the excellent home cooked food. Asado (the traditional grilled meats), salads, pasta dishes, scrummy deserts, afternoon tea with cakes and the freshest and tastiest eggs I have ever enjoyed. All food is part of the deal along with house wine.
Riding out
And of course the horse riding. You can ride alone or be taken out in small groups. I rode out with Luciano and his girlfriend Samantha and our guide Jonny, a fourteen year old Gaucho in training. You get to cover miles and miles of the estancia’s grounds, playing at herding the cattle and horses and marvelling at the horse riding skills of our guide.
Preparing to ride a wild horse
OK, so I came off my horse on the first ride out. The poor thing stumbled in the entry hole to one of many warrens dug by the wild hares and down she went. I like to think that I rolled gracefully onto the ground, however for a moment the location of my travel insurance documents flashed before me as thoughts of casualty and air ambulances raced through my head. But I just got up, shaked myself down and got back on. No drama at all. Very disappointing for those who know me well.
I even rediscovered my abilities, or lack of them, for table tennis as well as a few short walks in the woods.
So here I was enjoying the fresh air, blue skies and release from everyday life when it was mentioned we would pop into Taplaque, the local town. There was a little fair on. What I did not realise was that this was the annual fair of the local Gauchos.
The previous day there had been a parade and Jonny had found himself with a starring role, dressed up in his glad rags to ride through the town and carry the name of the Estancia:
On the day we visited, the Gauchos were taking part in competitions to stay on wild horses, showing off how good they would be at controlling the horse and staying on for the allotted time to great cheers and applause. All around the arena were families clearly camped out for the day, supping at mate, the Argentinean herb based infusion and rapt with attention on the goings on within the arena whilst talking ten to the dozen with friends around. The men were generally dressed in Gaucho wear, some in more ceremonial styles showing off their silver decorated belts and gaucho knives.
The atmosphere was absolutely electric and was a fascinating experience, totally unexpected and really letting you see how the locals go about celebrating then Gaucho life.
The following evening I wandered about the small town on what was a national holiday and soaked up the feeling of being out in the sticks away from the big city life.
Another reminder of how remote we were was a visit one late afternoon to the Pulperia. These general stores exist in a number of places on the pampas and the local one to the estancia is a gem, being one of the few that are working shops, not tourist traps. Luciano and Samantha, now good companions on my stay, whisked me there in their car for a beer and to shoot the breeze with the store owners, two elderly brothers. The shop is just how it was years ago with iron bars between the goods and the customers (gauchos used to fight), no electric light and products stacked neatly on shelves behind. It was all quite quaint, even if a little reminiscent of less salubrious parts of the UK when you go to the off licence late at night!
We watched a few customers come and go, being served with everything from cheese, cooked meats, coffee and a failed sale on a pair of reins for a horse. One gaucho in full shoes, beret and trousers told of how he had won a car at a gaucho fair a few weeks ago for his horseman skills. But he had no need for it as he had horses, so had sold it. The whole experience was very surreal and wonderful all at the same time. Like stepping back in time or being within a film.
Gaucho fashion
After too short a time, my time on the Estancia came to an end. It really had been a wonderful time away from my everyday existence. Clean, fresh air, tasty home cooked food, a feeling of real freedom, the crackle of log fires (there was even a roaring fire each evening in my bedroom) and friendly chat with Luciano and Samantha and the owner David and manager Susana.
If you want to getaway from life and enjoy the pleasures of the Argentinean pampas, then go stay at this Estancia, you need to book direct, however you can choose from the traditional house itself or one of the new self catering cottages with produce fresh from the farm. It is completely safe, no roaring tractors and machinery, a world away from everyday life and is great for families with children. There were even honeymooners staying, a young English couple. It is inexpensive and a world away from the heavily advertised big estancias near the capital. And most importantly it is good for the soul.
The journey out of Buenos Aires is well worth the effort.
Bob Atkinson"
From Susanna and Claudia in the office in BA to Raquel and Lalo with their respective teams on La Margarita it is they who make it all happen so smoothly for everyone – I just own the place as they constantly tell me! However, being the owner does give me the chance to swan around like a country squire in Argentina talking about farming which is really fun. One of my other favorite swanning around things to do is fishing. For some time I have been looking for a rustic shack on the River Plate to do just that so when the staff have had enough of me swanning around and tell me to shove off for while I can head to my shack on the river . As I mentioned I have been looking for some time but recently y I found just what I was looking for just across the River Plate in Uruguay which I have purchased – my shack on the river is now called Waterside Cottage Uruguay and I absolutely love it - heres the link to the little web page we did for it. http://watersidecottageuruguay.blogspot.com/
