And They’re Off!!!!!

Amalla Cat our new racehorse we have purchased with 4 others in Tapalque. Its in training and will run its first race in 4 months at the Tapalque track.

My son Dale on La Margarita in Nov - he left to soon to see our race horse but I am sure he will be putting a bet on it!




My parents for a while lived on the back of Kempton race track in London. We had a secret route where we could get in free and we often did. We packed a picnic and settled in on the grass and watched the likes of Desert Orchid valiantly win his races ( he was one of England’s most famous race horses ) . I often said to my son “one day son we will own a race horse” He must have heard it a million time and always nodded his head in agreement but probably doubting every word. After all I was a poor rock and roll musician having a great life style but not earning a great load of cash.
As he got older I still mentioned it to him when we went to a race meeting and he still gave me that resigned look as if to say ok ok let me know when it happens.
Fast forward a number of years and I am living in Argentina after hanging up my trusty telecaster and buying La Margarita ( see rock and roll wasn’t that bad for me!).
About 6 months ago we noticed that very near La Margarita some road widening was taking place on a dirt road near us - it was a mystery what it was to be . One of our gauchos Carlos who works on La Margarita sometimes said that it was going to be an small airport . He sounded pretty convinced even to the extent we stared to look to see how much it would cost to bring a light aircraft to La Margarita - after all maybe Sir Keef would pop in. As the months wore on we were all convinced that Carlos was right . Then one day I passed it and saw what looked suspiciously like starting stalls . Ummm not sure that airports have those I thought and headed into town to ask the Town Hall to solve the mystery . Yep it wasn’t going to be the new Heathrow it was going to be a race track . A few weeks later one Sunday sure enough the first race meeting took place and we eagerly went to it . What a great event it was - gauchos galore eating choripans( sausages rolls Argentine style and drinking mate Argentine traditional drink ) It was fabulous and what made it all the more fantastic was that Raquel who works for me sometimes her son had a horse running and yep you guessed it only went and won - perfect day. If you are on La Margarita make sure you pop along you will love it - its traditional rural Argentina at its best full of gauchos in all their finery - no four by four motor bikes here - the horse is god ( well apart from Maradona) and it shows. Held every last Sunday of the month its not to be missed
Now my son is on La Margarita next week as he makes his way to a new life with Katie his long standing girlfriend in New Zealand . This time he wont hear me say that one day we will get a horse- no he will hear me say “Dale my son I just bought a race horse” . I had been taking to one of my Argentine friends in Tapalque who often used to ask me if a good race horse came up for sale would I be interested in being a part owner - you bet I would . Just before I left Argentina to go to the UK for the famous wedding he rang me . “Tenemos un caballo” he said and we are all meeting later today to buy it could I come . Firing up the land rover I headed into town and within 2 hours the deal was done . I am not sure which part of the horse I own but who cares the Derby here we come . I will take pictures if it and publish them on my next blog - all we will need then Johnny Francome to ride it ( was top English Jockey)

I cant wait to see my sons face - better late than never as the song goes.
This is David Cummings alias The English Gaucho off to the the library to get a copy of Horse Training for Dummies
Hasta Pronto

Coincidence or Destiny Again

A happy ending for Uruguay


This subject is a little bit like Corrie for me Gaynor since I always come back to it one way or another. Lo and behold here we are again and once again you have (well you don’t have to but it could be fun) to nod or shake your head as you find it if only out of sympathy for me !! Just to say here that there is one false fact in this blog just to see if you are paying attention!

Today (18h Nov 09) I am on my way back from Montevideo where I was doing a bit of business. In fact we have sold a small plot of land there. I owned it with Ed and Brian . Since I was on La Margarita I left Ed to sort out when we signed and what day we travelled - he could have picked any day out of six weeks and he knows nothing about football . Now almost exactly to the day four years ago I was in Montevideo with Gaynor , Brian and Nigel to see a football game. Nigel worked for me and being an Aussie he wanted to to see Australia play their penultimate World Cup qualifying match against Uruguay in the Estadio Centenario the historic Uruguayan stadium where the match was to be played. Gaynor was over the moon at being able to get away from all the well stocked shops in Buenos Aires! We were only to happy to join Nigel and arrived in plenty of time for the match. The Aussies were up against it but they fought really well and went home with a well deserved draw and we had loads of fun being Aussies for the day. A week later in Sydney they broke the hearts of the Uruguayans were they won the replay game and went through to the finals in Germany where they excelled themselves . The poor Uruguayans were left with the task of rebuilding their spirit for a try at the South African World Cup Finals . I always felt a little bit guilty not giving Uruguay more support .

Now how about this - is it coincidence or destiny? Remember I had left Ed to sort out all the travel arrangements’ to come here to Uruguay and he doesnt even know that England won the World Cup in 1966 ( umm not a good example I grant you!) - well imagine my surprise when I heard that Uruguay were playing their last World Cup qualifying match that evening on the very day we were to be in Montevideo to sign the land contract . Having won against Costa Rica in Costa Rica the week before by a goal all they had to do was hold that lead in Montevideo. They were deserved favourites to win but would they do it? . It was great for me - I like Uruguay and the people are very nice and this time my cheering would be for Uruguay . Twenty minutes into game and it looked fine - Costa Rica had picked up five yellow cards and it was odds on that Uruguay would be in the finals. It all looked over in the second half as Uruguay brought on a player they call El Loco. One of the Uruguayans guys I was watching the game with explained that he is loco with his head and it’s the only way he scores . He duly obliged as he drilled a great goal into the net with his head. It looked all over but not according to the Costa Ricans who wanted to ruin the party and two minutes later against the run off play they put the ball in the Uruguayan net . Oh no was I here to watch Uruguay’s hearts get broken again . Thankfully after seven minutes of extra time and a lot of suffering by us Uruguayans! were thankfully thorough - justice was done - Nos vemos en las finales chicos!!
OK was it coincidence or destiny I was here in Uruguay almost exactly four years after I had last seem them lose a desperate battle to get into the World Cup finals - this time it was a much happier ending. I for one am not sure but I like to think it was destiny for me to be in Uruguay when this game as played . Que tengan suerte en El Mundial Uruguay.

This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho heading back to La Margarita with Uruguay’s cheers ringing in my ears

Hasta Pronto

The Times they are a Changing

1)Guest from all over just back from riding out (14.11.09)
2)Cows are just where I left them!


When Bob wrote that song he could never have visited La Margarita. I have been away for a few weeks in the UK for the wedding of my mates. I flew back about ten days ago and came straight to La Margarita and nothing has changed since I left. Ok I know it’s only a few weeks but in days when minor celebs can get married and divorced in that time its loads of time. Everything was the same here, I swear even the cows seemed to be laying down in the same place as when I left. It was great coming back here. We had some great guests come down to visit La Margarita from all over including Holland, Australia, UK, and the USA. They did the usually things, they rode horses, walked in the park, swam in the pool and in the evening drunk great wine and chatted and laughed with each other over dinner Something’s are bound to change but some things thank goodness don’t - that’s kind of reassuring to me - the fact that here on La Margarita things will always be the same - well at least I hope Bobs prophecy doesn’t come true here cos we like it just the way it is
This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho off to walk with Fido and Jack and watch their vain attempts to catch hares.
Hasta Pronto
David

Keeping on Running!

( Another shot from Brians stag night)

When I was staying in Brighton to do my best man duties at my mates Brian and Gaynors wedding last week I saw a poster advertising the musical merits of a once famous group called the Animals. Now I knew lots of their old tunes such as House of the Rising Sun , Don’t Let Me Be Misunderstood and the glorious We Gotta Get Out of This Place . I snapped up a couple of tickets and the Friday before the wedding off we set in search of some nostalgia. Entering the place it was clear to see that this audience was getting on a bit but cheer, shout and sing-along they did. As the famous (in their era) group came on it was like being sent back to the swinging 60s. Opening up with I’m Crying the whole place was suddenly rocking and this aging audience was suddenly 16 again. It was I have to say bloody enjoyable. As the band were wrapping up their last song the singer ( not Eric Burdon sadly but without doubt his replacement is very very good ) started to tell us about how many different talented artists had trodden the boards with them over the years and he reeled of an impressive list of names . He said that this particular night he had some one really special and as soon as he entered he would need to no introduction . I half expected the wonderful Sir Keef Richards La Margaritas favourite son, to saunter on with fag hanging on to the edge of his guitar , whisky in hand and a grin on his face - after all he only lives down the road I am told . Sadly its wasn’t the great one , instead a greying old bloke with long hair and a small stoop with a pullover on entered the stage and started to tune his guitar. All the time the singer of the Animals was waxing on about no introduction was necessary for this giant of a musician . Ummm it was for me, I didn’t have a bloody clue who he was but then he stated to play his guitar A D A D A D E7 and then he was off “Keep on running keep on hiding ,one fine day I’m gonna be the one to make you understand “ Ok if you are under 45 you may not know who he was but if not you will likely know it was the fabulous Spencer Davies. He was without doubt an icon in his day and the brother of Stevie Winwood to boot - a talent indeed. Here he was looking this night like he was modelling for Saga holidays but oh when he played and sang he looked like he was 20 again. What a night it was. I loved it and you would have too if you had been there - not sure what Maria made of it all but she did manage a verse of the House of the Rising Sun - albeit in Spanish! Hats off to all those old dudes ( me included )who come out to sing at the top of their voices to those old groups who still keep treading the boards -it was without doubt a night to remember . Bet their teachers who said to them “listen to me it wont last this music then what will you do it will be back to the factory “ are eating their words now big time!

This is David Cummings alias The English Gaucho off to search for my old trusty old Stratocaster -- now how did it go A D A D A D E7 Keep on running……………
Hasta la Vista soon gonna be back on the lovely La Margarita and to be truthful I cant wait Lalo our resident gaucho has now opened the pool yeaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
David Cummings

Didn’t We Have a Lovely Day ………

Pics = The wedded couple, one of the fake waiters with Brian, Brian and that great speech, el best man and Gaynor

Some weddings are grand affairs, some are drunken brawls , some are draughty whilst others are just a bit odd . Sometimes they are really expensive and others barely scarping the barrel. Some are quick affairs and some can be just a bit boring but some can be like Gaynor’s and Brian’s wedding - the perfect wedding for perfect couple ( ok I made the last bit up no ones perfect!) . Their wedding was perfection itself. From the “off the wall” photographer to the little sticks of Brighton Rock on our tables . From the fake waiters who fooled everyone to the friends and family who sang in the evening on the “open mike“. From how Gaynor looked (fantastic) to Brian’s speech which was both witty, funny and heart-warming - it was for me the most honest speech I think I have ever heard. From the venue in trendy and cool Brighton to the Ceroc dance lesson for us in the evening . From the lovely lady registrar who tried to get Brian to marry Miss Evans instead of Miss Williams to the charming lady who sang songs with here ukulele in the reception (www.sharonlewis.net) aned to the wonderful food we ate .
It was without doubt a lovely lovely lovely day (and evening) . It was the sort of day I would like to pack into a carton and tie it up with ribbons and when those joyless days come ( as they do for us all sometimes) I would get it out , untie the ribbon and let that day out to perform in front of me in 3D to remind me how very special it all can be sometimes. It was a lonbg way to come from Buenos Aires but I would not have missed it for the world.

Thanks you my very very special lovely friends for inviting me to be your best man it was both a privilege and an honour

This is David Cummings alias The English Gaucho writing this with a big smile on my face .

Its Nice Day for a White Wedding

Brian our brave groom on the start of the stag day and night. Its the go- carting stag night championship - ummm Calvin won!!!


Well at least I hope it is on Saturday 17th Oct 09 since I am now in the UK for a visit leaving La Margarita in the capable hands of my great team while I am here.

Let me explain. The last time I was in the UK it was to be the best man at my very best friends Gaynor and Brian’s wedding. All plans had been made and the only thing was to book the venue - small detail. Sadly it did happen because the venue my friends wanted wasn’t available. So back I went to BA clutching my best suit and tie and thinking that it will at least give me time to learn the speech better.
But this time its all in place, apart from me learning the speech that is! The venue is booked (a great hotel in Brighton) brides maids are kitted out , the table plan finished and the stag night has been celebrated without losing Brian for a week or two.
Saturday 17th Oct is the day and I want to say a public bloggy “I wish you, my best mates a fantastic day for you both “ and big thank you for making me your best man.

This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho of to learn my speech!!
Hasta la Vista

We Plough the Fields and Scatter etc etc etc etc……..

Funny when we sung that hymn at school it meant zilch to me. Being a London lad there didn’t seem too many places we could plough the fields and scatter not unless you count my great grans flowers pots hanging over the railways lines of the two up two down she lived in backing onto the Junction in Clapham.

Now since I have owned La Margarita it’s all starting to make perfect sense to me. No doubt about it Argentina is a hard country to try and make money in. Its just not a consistent country - plans hard made can fly out the window because the Government decided to move the goalposts yet again. However, as my friend Mario in Tapalque has constantly said to me “David there is only one way to make money in this country and that is yep you guessed it plough the fields and scatter”. And that is just what we, with Mario as our advisor and investor are doing. Just take a look at the picture (and the link for the little video of me joy riding in Mario’s tractor)- I agree it all may seem pretty boring just a load of land being ploughed. But Mario says that next April it will be like a gold mine. We are planting soya all 500 acres of it – all we have to pray for is rain so fingers crossed. My old gran would, I am, sure be proud of me

This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho of to make sure the tractor is still working and Mario has enough mate (Argentine traditional drink)

Hasta Pronto y saludos
David

A Bad Year for Dancing

Dirty Dancing was my daughters favorite film , we watched it together a number of times - Jodie was 11 and she no doubt had a crush on Patrick Swayze and I loved great dancing so I have to confess it was one of my favorite films too. It was a soppy film but oh was the dancing good. So now after MJ we bloody well lose Patrick Swayze - how unfair it all seems. When I was a kid I had a crush on a girl called Susan Baker. Susan Baker went to dancing lessons and I had a paper round. I saved my paper round money and paid to have a few dancing lessons - yep at the same dance school as Susan Baker. I loved it and when I got a chance to practice a twirl with Susan my 13 year old heart leapt. Problem was my mates thought I a sissy and took the pi!!!!!!! out of me constantly . I left my heart with Susan Baker and left the dancing lessons. If only I had know what doors it could have opened

In what sometimes seems an ugly world finding things of beauty can sure lift the heart (staying on La Margarita is one of them!) What I had no idea about Patrick Swayze was just how good he was at dancing what I had no idea also was just how good his wife was at dancing and what is incredible is just how good they were together dancing. Have a look at this clip of them dancing together -if it doesn’t lift your heart then we must live on different planets

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Y0TWOttkVo

Of course I never meet Patrick Swayze why would I (and he never came to La Margarita) but I reckon if I had have done I would have come away thinking he was a nice guy - now I will never know but just in case he is reading my blog I want to say thank you Patrick for the dance mate -loved it all

This is David Cummings alias The English Gaucho writing from La Margarita wishing I had kept those dancing lessons up.

Hasta pronto

Painting a Picture

The two white columns in the distance

I am not on La Margarita all the time. I like to travel sometimes and visit other places mostly in Argentina but for sure it’s always good to get back to La Margarita and it always surprises me when I do.
This weekend I came back to the estancia after being in Marisol on the coast. I had dinner and I decided to go for walk. I made my way through the park and passed the two white columns which mark the end of the park and the beginning of the open fields where we keep the animals. On the other side of the white columns some years ago I put five or six logs when I first purchased La Margarita for people to sit down on and enjoy the tranquillity and view. I sat down on one, the moon was full and the whole country side which seems to go on forever was bathed in moonlight. In the distance I could see three or four twinkling lights of the houses of some of my neighbours who are a long distance away. Behind me is a fir tree and roosting right at the top of the tree are two Great Rhea’ s (the largest birds in South America) who now consider it their home and call out to me sometimes to buzz off and leave them in peace!! I can see the horses grazing in the fields (don’t they ever sleep) and the cows chewing cud.

As I sat there enjoying the peacefulness life seemed perfect in the world – it’s not I know but sitting alone on that log it certainly seemed it.

This is David Cummings alias the English gaucho sitting on a log at peace with the world
Hasta Pronto

It’s a Dogs Life for Me Next Time

Someone asked me recently who I would like to come back as if we get a second chance at life. I did give it some thought and I came up with a few possibilities. Dave Gilmore is the best guitarist in the world and seems to have the best job playing with Pink Floyd so that would do for me (yes Roger your Pink Floyd is good but it’s missing one vital ingredient and that’s Dave G). Keef Richards was another choice. He was voted by guests of La Margarita as one of the happiest blokes on earth so he seems a good choice. Finally I chose Suzanne Hill, ok you don’t know her but believe me I have my reasons.
However, after some serious thinking I decided that I would come back as Jack or Fido one of the dogs we have on La Margarita. It seems that all they need in life is some big open space to run around, rabbits to chase, people to give them a bit of attention sometimes and bones to eat. They must think everyday what a result we were born to live on the lovely La Margarita. If you have been here to BA you can’t have missed the professional dog walkers here in the city. They can be seen all over BA taking dogs for a walk – not just one but up to 20 or 30 at a time!! – well in fact all they seem to do is take the poor mutes to the park and tie them up while they light up a fag up or have a chin wag with their mates. It’s a good job they can’t see this little video I have attached of Jack and Fido doing what they love doing best running around on La Margarita or for sure we would see the first dog protest in BA. This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho of to walk with Fido and Jack on a winters day that is 28degs ummm climate change has arrived here for sure

Felicitaciones a Ade y Anna

( Photo 1. Ade and Anna with Andrew Brennan another guest saying our final goodbyes in Tapalque. Photo 2. Ade and Anna doing what they loved best riding out with Lalo our very own Gaucho)

As I have mentioned a few times in my blog, one of the great things about owning an estancia such as La Margarita is that I get to meet some really nice and interesting people. Take Ade and Anna for example. Last year I got an e mail from them asking me about the availability on La Margarita as they were getting married and planned to spend their honeymoon travelling in South America and fancied spending some time on an estancia. We corresponded and, lucky for us, they choose to come to La Margarita for around 5 nights and 6 days. They duly arrived and immediately got into the rhythm of the estancia. Horse riding, chilling out in hammocks, drinking wine with other guests and swimming in the pool were typical days for them here. When it was time for them to leave we said our good-byes and wished each other luck.

A week later I got another e mail from them saying they missed La Margarita so much they were going to head back and spend the last few days of their honeymoon on the estancia. Once again they settled into the rhythm of estancia life. When it came time to say goodbye again it was as though true friends were leaving. They were on their way back to start married life with no jobs, and nowhere to live since they had given up everything to travel.

Last week I got an email from them saying that Ade had found work as a teacher, which was a total change of career for him, and that they had found somewhere to live in Sunninghill, a lovely village near London AND WHAT’S MORE - Anna is 3 months pregnant yeaaaaaaaas.

Here is to you two (three?!) and a public bloggy thank you for coming to La Margarita. I really wish you both all you can wish for in life and, who knows, I may bump into you one day when I am in England, since I have friends who live in Virgina Water just down the road.

This is David Cummings alias El English Gaucho off to tell Velvet, Anna’s favourite horse, their excellent news.

Hasta la proxima

Soya Watch Video

When I was a kid in London there was a programme called Blue Peter which we avidly watched. They often had little sections such as” bee watch” or “animal watch” all great stuff and “soya watch” is named in honour of the great programme .

La Margarita is now actively involved in locating land to plant soya on since the appetite for the product seems insatiable. We have now located the first 50 acres of land on which to plant and signed the contact at the weekend 8th August. I hope this is the first of many tracts of land we can rent to plant soya with investors.


We will be taking videos of our progress and the first one was filmed on 9th Aug and the link is below . Ok ok as my good friends have told me its not quite Alan Whicker but for info it seems to work. It’s going to be an interesting year. If you want to know more about what we are doing or want to join us please e mail me and I will happily send you more info.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dLR4hZPoNY


The is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho of to try and track down more land for planting soya around La Margarita

Hasta la proxima

The Legendary Carteneros of Buenos Aires and the Crises

I am not sure who said recently that this economic crisis shows no mercy to anyone, but he was right for sure. No matter who you are - both rich and poor are affected. No doubt about it I am one of the lucky ones in this world. I own a beautiful estancia and have a great life – yes the crisis has affected us but I know I am not feeling the same effect as the famous Carteneros here in BA. When I feel like complaining I just need to go out on a miserable rainy night and see these Carteneros and their families working the streets and know that there but for grace of God go I .....................

The Carteneros are a phenomenon who appeared after the crisis here in Argentina in 2001. Unemployment was 60% and life for many was tough. However it’s amazing how resilient some people can be. The price of paper, plastic and cardboard was high and almost overnight the army of Carteneros appeared on the streets at night collecting these materials to sell so they could eat. Whole families worked the streets in all weathers looking for these materials to take to recycling plants to sell. They became such a strong movement that the Government even gave them a train to take their wares to the Tigre recycling plants to sell. Sadly the Government decided to stop the train and they now have to rely on lorries coming to get them to take them and their hard won produce to their destination.

Over the past 6 months I had noticed that the number of Carteneros in BA seemed to be diminishing and I wondered why - was it because life was easier and they didn’t need to do it. I decided to ask a few Carteneros and see what was happening. What was happening was the crisis - it has badly affected them. The price in 2003 for a kilo of cardboard was 3 pesos (about 1$US). Whilst I am sure they weren’t driving around in BMWs the living was not bad - dangerous yes and hard certainly but they earned enough to keep their families in food and clothes. Sadly with the crisis all that has changed. The price for a kilo of cardboard has dropped by 10 times less from 3 pesos to 30 centavos. Plastic, which was 2 pesos a kilo, has now dropped to 70 centavos. Cardboard had dropped to 7 centavos at Christmas but thankfully it has now risen slightly. With the crisis came the abandonment of the help from the Government – nice one guys!! So I now I know why there are fewer Carteneros on the streets – it’s still tough and it’s still dangerous and the rewards are now even less. Even the price of transport to get it to the market has increased. Yet in spite of this there are still over 5000 Carteneros still doing it – I raise a glass to you guys

What can I say about those people? - brave and resilient that’s what. While I am happy sleeping or having a nice glass of wine they are out in all weather scraping a living – yet they can still smile as witnessed by the lovely smiles I received when I told them I was writing a blog about their labours last night. Next time you come to BA take a photo of a Cartenero and give him or her a few pesos for the photo – he or she will love you for it and reward you with a big smile.

This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho thanking the universe for dealing me some winning hands
Hasta pronto

Life doesn’t frighten me by Maya Angelou

Suzie sent me this sometime ago - she disappeared and left us behind but she left some great memories and words xx - not sure if this street family on the Buenos Aires streets can understand it but it doesnt matter they seem happy enough - more on them in my next blog ..................... hard to understand but it gets easier

Life doesn’t frighten me by Maya Angelou

Through an ascending emptiness of night,
Leaving the flesh and complacent mind
Together in their suffciency behind,
The soul of man went up to a far height;
And where those others would have had no sight
Or sense of else than terror for the blind,
Soul met the Will, and was again consigned
To the supreme illusion which is right.

"And what goes on up there," the Mind inquired,
"That I know not already to be true?"—
"More than enough, but not enough for you,"
Said the descending Soul: "Here in the dark,
Where you are least revealed when most admired,
You may still be the bellows and the spark."

Time for a small change

Those of you who have been to Buenos Aires know full well how hard it is to get hold of small change here - yep I can almost see you nodding your heads. Ever tried giving a kiosk owner a 100$ pesos note for a can of coke? Yea it’s like you had asked him to move in with him.

The look on the faces of shop owners, taxis drivers and restaurant owners is a sheer delight when you try to change that 100 pesos note with them. Most simply won’t do it – telling you to push of with your 100$ pesos note and take it somewhere else – hey don’t these people know it’s their responsibility to get change from their bank before they open their businesses? Don’t they also know there is a crisis and that every penny counts? Answer here in BA evidently is no, no, no. No change, no buy seems to be the motto.

All sorts of theories have emerged why there is such a shortage of change in BA but the most likely is that it is hoarded by the bus company who then sell it to the banks or who ever else wants a pocket full of centavos. The thing is the bus companies have a machine which only takes small change – if you have no change you walk or queue for an hour to get 20 pesos worth of change in Constitution before getting on your bus.

Well hey, hey there has been a small amount of progress in eliminating this problem. The Government has introduced a card which can be re-charged with money and used on the underground and a few bus lines. There was the usual hour-long queue to get one and the usual form filling in, but I shouldn’t knock it because it is progress.

Forget the fact that they could have done away with the form filling in and just sold the cards at Kiosks – oh yea sorry, I forgot, Kiosks have no change, so if you have no change they won’t sell you a card, which would mean you would need less small change because you have a small change card – umm sorry I lost myself at bit there.

This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho walking around with loads of small change jangling in my pocket because the toll booths on the motorways always have change - lucky for me!

Speaking of Happiness thanks M J - update

I have often returned to the theme of happiness in this La Margarita blog and we once voted on who was the happiest man in the world. Well yesterday (25.06.09) as even my cows know Michael Jackson died. I doubt that he was one of the happiest men in the world but one thing is for sure he made millions happy with his music and his dancing – he was the King of Pop without doubt. If you don’t believe me have a look at this link http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZkGOiS75Lwk

and watch and wonder - it is sheer joy. I listened, listen and will continue to listen to Beat It forever – the rhythm, the dance ,the song, the video, the guitar sola it has it all numero uno diez puntos the perfect pop song – bet God is happy to have him showing him how to do that moon walk now . Not sure how it happened that the great Eddie Van Halen played guitar on that single but I can imagine the conversation. Hey Quincy how about we get that heavy rock guitarist to play on my new single Beat It . You got to be joking Micheal you are funky he's heavy . Nah give him a ring see what he says. Hey Eddie wanna play guitar on MJ's new single . What me man nah I m heavy he's funky just won't work. Yea go on give it a try MJ thinks it will work. Ok I will but I warn you won't work. Yep didnt work all right it just worked fantastically - still one of the best guitar solos ever - even Van Halen said sorry don't ask me to repeat it cos I can't. Beat It became one of the best selling singles of all time - sheer sheer genius

Cheers MJ thank you so much for the music it was and still is fantastic.

This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho playing loud music on La Margarita today to celebrate the life of the King of Pop - sad yes but dance we will.

A Sad Canine Farewell to a Lovely Old Campaigner

(Pic of Tom with Susan and her daughter contemplating if back packing is for him)
To those of you who have come to stay on La Margarita I know many of you loved the dogs we have here. Fido, Jack and Tom have often been firm favourites for many of you who stayed with us. It is therefore very sad for me to break the news that Tom, our oldest dog, sadly died last week. Although we are all very upset it is true to say that Tom had a very good innings.

We inherited him from the original owners of La Margarita a few years back. To be truthful he was even old then - in that same way that Ken Barlow seems to have always been old (sorry it’s an English Corrie thing). But it didn’t stop him from wanting to keep up with the youngster Jack or Fido when it came to going for long walks. Tom however always had that look of disdain about him and sometimes used to look at me is if to say “sorry old chap think I will just ignore you today and do my own thing”. I loved that look - it was as though he looked at me as the new upstart somehow, I was not fit to talk to a thoroughbred estancia dog.

Of course there were other times when he would forget his classy upbringing and slum it with me, and often with some of you. He would walk, say, to the entrance (about a couple of kilometres) and keep whoever he was with company all the way while Fido and Jack tried vainly to catch hares - something that Tom was not going to lower himself to do - too much rushing around . Often when we turned around to come back Tom would then decide ok that’s enough chit chat I am heading back as quick as I can to the house to guard it - and that’s exactly what he did.

Over the past year many of you have noticed he was suffering with what can only be termed as old age. I often thought, ok I will take him to the vet and do the terrible deed but I never did. I didn’t because even up to a few months ago I would find Tom alongside me deciding that maybe a walk with the satanic upstart wouldn’t be such a bad thing . I made sure I walked slowly for him and he often made it for at least a kilometre.

One day last week he took himself into the woods for his last walk. He laid down to have a sleep and didn’t wake up. It’s really sad but he had a great life I do know that and I have no doubt he has joined Bac (our other old dog) in heaven to have some great walks in the estancia in the sky

Have fun Tom, we will miss you your Excellency

This is the English Gaucho a little sadder today than yesterday
Saludos
David

Make Mine a Fray Bentos por favor

I still remember it like it was yesterday. Getting home from a hard days studying at Kingston Polytechnic (that’s what they were called it in those days - now it’s a University, err what? How did that happen?). Having to decide what gourmet meal to conjure up that evening – of course in those days we didn’t have the choice of TV chefs that are all over TV these days offering us advice on how to boil an egg or make a piece of toast. Oh no we only had Fanny and Johnny Craddock. If I had continued playing my trusty telecaster in dodgy bands I would now be referred to as an ageing rock star (ok, ok I know I am pushing it a bit with ‘rock star’ but you get the picture!) so I really can only just about remember these two grouchy food makers, complete with monocle and snooty accents - and cool they weren’t. No, the delights of healthy eating and calorie counting hadn’t been invented yet, so we turned to whatever was in the cupboard at the time to satisfy our hunger without regard to its heath giving qualities. My cupboard held all sorts of culinary delights including baked beans with sausages, chipolatas in a tin (do they still exist?) and mucho tins of tinned tomatoes. For pudding there were usually a few tins of delicious Ambrosia tinned rice. Yep all my daily dietary needs in those days came in tins.

Now the pride of place as regards the meal in a tin that I usually saved for special occasions was the glorious Fray Bentos steak and kidney pie. If you were a student in those miner striking days you almost certainly knew the importance of having a Fray Bentos tinned pie in the cupboard for those very, very special events. When other student friends came round to drink your Party Four and nick the Smiths crisps the conversation would invariable turn to “what you got in the cupboard for dinner” The Fray Bentos tin would be dusted of from where it had lain for a couple of years because no one wanted to tackle opening it and the fact that it took hours to cook meant that it was often over looked for beans on toast etc. After a half hour of looking for a tin opener the deed was done and it was stuck into the oven. Magically in a few hours (well that’s what it seemed) a peek in the oven would reveal a perfectly cooked pie with pastry so high that it made you feel dizzy. Taking it out of the oven the pastry would suddenly deflate and settle on the delicious chunks of beef and gravy. It was a delicious sight to us hungry students. The pie, which had taken hours to cook would be eaten in two minutes flat and a tin of ambrosias finest would be opened to finish off a perfect meal. This ritual was no doubt happening all around the UK in those heady student days. It took me a few years to wean myself of this tasty dish but eventually my desire for the legendary Fray Bentos steak and kidney pie waned.

Fast forward numerous decades and I find myself in Argentina in 2003. One day I was studying a map of South America when, to my utter surprise, I saw on the border of Argentina and Uruguay a town called Fray Bentos. I couldn’t believe it. There was a blooming town actually called Fray Bentos - unbelievable. I had to go to see this town - after all I had been saved from hunger many times in my student days by the famed pie and was very interested in where its name came from.

A trip was quickly planed to the mecca of pies and one day in 2003 I crossed the Argentine border and into the famously named Fray Bentos. I can confirm that it was indeed the home of beef pies. It had in its day housed one of the largest slaughter house in the Americas and exported record tons of beef. Eventually going into decline in the 1960’s it now houses a museum in the former slaughter house which its self is mainly abandoned (the keeper of the museum is a delight so say hello to her from me if you go).

In many ways it was an incredible experience being here - Fray Bentos was synonymous with my youth and now I was visiting it. I was given a tour of the 9 hole golf club where there were pictures of the ex golf captains with names such as Wilson, Smith and Campbell. It was, in its time, an English outpost supplying beef for my student day dinners. For me it was a great few days and made me very reflective of my pie eating student days. I left the next day a lot wiser of what was involved in the making of the famous pie.

Now imagine my surprise when on a trip to the UK last year I was visiting my very good friend Calvin. One evening he asked me what I wanted for dinner. “You decide” I said “ok” he replied “I will go and have a look at what I have in the cupboard“. On returning he said what about this then as he held up a beautiful can of Fray Bentos steak and kidney pie. I was so excited I took a photo of him holding this national treasure and I just found the photo and had to write this blog. We looked for a tin opener, put the pie in the oven for nostalgia’s sake (ignoring the microwave) waited a few hours then took it out of the oven, watched the pastry collapse and ate it in 2 minutes flat. Its good that some things never change seeing as I am changing all the time - it gives me a sense of security and I can confirm that the Fray Bentos pie is no better or worse than it was in my student days – ain’t life grand?

This is the David Cummings alias the English Gaucho about to go out and have a real steak in Palermo at Campo Bravo
Hasta la proxima

Where Have all the Cowboys Gone?...........................

.................Where is my John Wayne, Where is my prairie song, Where is my happy ending, Where have all the cowboys gone?”
So sang Paula Cole in 1997. I loved that song and it is a great song, no doubt about it, but oh so sad. I don’t know where Paula is now but she should have booked to come to La Margarita last week. Here she would have found two of the cowboys she sang about. Well, in truth, I am not 100% sure if Bill or Mike were who she was singing about in her mournful lament, but one thing is for sure, these dudes are cowboys through and through and it was a privilege to meet them.
Bill and Mike, together with Leonard the camera man, had travelled all the way from Wyoming and were visiting La Pampas at the invitation of Max (my famous painter neighbour http://www.maxwernerart.com/ ). They were here to film a documentary on horse riding and cattle rearing in the Argentine pampas, namely Tapalque.
As they went about their filming on La Margarita and Max’s estancia, La Tocasa, I felt as if I was in a version of City Slickers. What Bill doesn’t know about riding is probably not worth knowing. In Wyoming he organises what he termed as ‘Wilderness Rides’. This involves 7 days of riding in what can only be described as beautiful but savage countryside. I took it as a compliment when he said how beautiful he found the Argentine pampas, particularly after he had showed me his operation in Wyoming http://www.hiddencreekoutfitters.com/ (have a peek yourself and see why.)
Since Max was sending a lot of cows to market they had to be branded and Mike got stuck right in lassoing and branding, just like one of the cowboys Paula was surely singing about .
At the same time that Bill and Mike were with us we had two guests from New York, Paul and Jennifer who admitted that, like us, they had never meet real-life cowboys themselves before and were as fascinated as we were. Listening to the four of them talk together it was as though they were from two different countries.
One day we went into town with the cowboys so that they could do some filming. It was great watching the reaction of the people there who themselves are usually dressed in typical gaucho costumes. You would have thought that Mike and Bill were from Mars as they strolled through town in their spurs talking to the locals in a language they couldn’t understand.
On the last night we had an asado and as I offered champagne to everyone to celebrate a great week Mike confessed that he had never tasted champagne before. “Just a Bud man” was his reply when I asked him if he wanted some of Norton’s finest. In the end we persuaded him to drink the bubbly stuff – which he bravely did before going straight back to his “Bud”
Last week they flew back to Wyoming to edit the documentary which hopefully will be shown at the end of the year. Of course I can’t wait to see it, and I will post a link on the blog as soon as it’s available.
This is David Cummings alias the English Cowboy, sorry Gaucho, signing off to try my poor hand at lassoing some more lambs!
Saludos
David Cummings

Destiny, or Coincidence Revisited?

Wow, so that’s Semana Santa 2009 come and gone. Where does the time go? Certainly on La Margarita it sometimes seems to pick up speed. I think Einstein had a theory about time not being fixed but that it is fluid - especially when having a great time and I am with him on that here in La Pampas! Over Easter we were pretty much full at the estancia. It’s always great to see La Margarita being enjoyed by guests and their children chilling out and horse riding over the wide-open pampas.

This Easter we had many guests from Argentina which was great, and we really enjoyed their company. Most stayed for 3 to 4 nights and on the Sunday night we got the guitars out and had a great sing song together. Elli and her daughter treated us to some excellent classic traditional Argentinean songs, and her husband Daniel proceeded to take some great photos (which you can see). Cecilia provided backup vocals with her children while Eduardo and Mercedes and children provided choral support. It was a lovely evening and I really enjoyed it, so I want to say a big thank you all for choosing to come to La Margarita – it was really good fun and come back soon

At the same time we also had a lovely family of four from England. Now sometime ago I wrote a blog on the subject of coincidence or destiny. It’s an intriguing subject and I had to ask myself the question again this weekend - here is the story.

Paul and Bernadette Cleary were visiting their daughter Tara whilst she was visiting Argentina as part of her travels through South America. They decided they wanted to do a bit of horse riding and asked Tara to choose somewhere. She picked up a copy of Time Out Buenos Aires and there was an article about a number of estancias to visit in BA province. She spoke to her mum and said that she had chosen La Margarita (thanks guys). The choice was made and the booking done. They came last Thursday and had a great time. Both Bernadette and her daughter Bryony (hope that’s spelt right) enjoyed loads of horse riding and went on a couple of the long rides that we offer experienced riders on La Margarita.

That night we had dinner together and, as we were chatting over a glass of wine (or four!) it turned out that they live in Hove near Brighton, just a few roads away from my best friends’ Gaynor and Brian, where I will be staying next week when I visit them. As we continued chatting to Paul he mentioned that he is a TV producer. He said that he had started out as a film editor. I mentioned that one of my best friends is a film editor and asked if he knew him. Incredibly he not only knew Martin Roach, who is one of my oldest friends, but had worked with him many times. As the conversation continued I mentioned that I wanted to promote the horse riding on La Margarita by means of putting small videos on our web pages showing, for example the horse rides, tack we use and the gaucho life style, but had no idea how to go about it. By coincidence Bernadette has just launched a website on the theme of pregnancy and is producing a series of videos on the subject which seems like a fantastic idea to me (why didn’t I think of that?!) – have a peek http://www.mybirth.tv/. They explained the process of video film making and the internet to me and said they would be happy to offer advice if I needed it. Finally we decided to have dinner one night when I am in Hove in the next few weeks. Can’t wait.

Ok, you decide. Here we are in the middle of the Argentine pampas a million miles from Hove and this happens – was it coincidence or destiny? – answers on the back of a post card please.

This is David Cumming alias the English Gaucho, a little more knowledgeable about the internet and sitting in the gallery of La Margarita enjoying the lovely autumn sun
Hasta la vista

David Cummings

Animal Farm

Many of you who have come to La Margarita have sent us e mails asking how the animals are doing. As you can see from the photo of the kittens that arrived last November they seem to have settled in very nicely although mice catching doesn’t seem to be on their agenda. Fido’s wound has healed after tearing his leg on barbed wire in his now vain pursuit of a hares. Jack is as jealous as ever and is now bigger than his dad Fido. Tom well Tom is Tom old and content he sometimes manages the energy to walk with me but heads back when he has had enough. The turkeys had babies but sadly they have all disappeared and it looks like the foxes ate well one night – we will try and put them in a coup the next time buts its difficult. The horses are doing fine and everyone loves Dolores one of the few with a name who says to say hi to you all!
Saludos
Hasta la proximo

David

Take a Short Walk on the Wild Side of Buenos Aires

photo 1. Mary and Alain relaxing after their short walk on the wild side

photo 2. The bus terminal at Retiro

I like most tourists who first come to Buenos Aires notice how very European BA can feel. With its classic buildings, parks and stylish cafes it can sometimes feel as though one is in Paris or some other pretty European city and not in some chaotic South American city. It was the same for me when I first came here. I loved to stroll through the classic barrio of Recoleta and take a tea at one of the stylish cafes near the famous cemetery. That or walk around Palermo with its quiet but oh so trendy streets and take a beer on the Plaza Cortaza in the heart of Palermo Viejo. No doubt about it BA has some wonderful barrios to enjoy but all the time it can mislead one into thinking that one is in a typical European city and not in South America. Sometimes it’s hard to see where the proof that we are in South America is. To make things worse Portenos like to think that that they are not in South America but in Europe and make sure that the European feel pervades the city. So where can you go to feel, smell and touch the real South American in BA – is it possible?

In fact it’s easy to find but unless you are going on a coach trip or want to catch a train you will likely never go to this area and you will miss it. Most Portenos will tell you to avoid the area telling you it’s full of gypsy’s tramps and thieves. Problem is they may well be right. I am sure it is full of very dodgy people but then so are the Houses of Parliament (I am sure it’s also full of ordinary South American people going about there everyday business who are not looking to murder or rob you) but hey take a walk on the wild side once in a while - chances are nothing will happen to you and you will feel exhilarated by what you find.

Ok where this East is meets West location in BA. Easy, get on the 152 bus (softies can take a taxi) on Santa Fe and get off at Esmeralda and Libertador streets. Cross over Libertador to the Retiro station go past the station and the walk as far as the bus terminal is the start of your short walk on the wild side. The area between the Retiro train station and the bus terminal is about a half kilometre of glorious bedlam. Here is where you will suddenly know you are not in some swanky European city but that you are in the real South America with all its passion, romance and colour. Don’t go flashing your diamonds or gold chains with you (common sense is the order of the day) – it’s doubtful if they will be stolen but they just might. But do take a few pesos with you so you can enjoy an empanada and beer in one of the many cafes that are alive with Bolivians, Ecuadorians. Peruanas, Brazileros and people from every corner of South America and just soak up the atmosphere – course you won’t find any Portenos doing it but (hey they still think that St Telmo is dangerous) -they will just remind you that the area is just a block from one of the biggest Villas ( slums ) in BA. Villas 31 is the culprit. It’s a Villa that has become famous due to it being located on one the most expensive area of BA s in potential real estate prices. It houses some 70000 people and is growing daily. The new Mayor says he is determined to move it and its people – chances of that happening without a war breaking out are less than zero. Continue your walk until you come to the bus terminal ( which must be one of the largest in the world) on entering the terminal you will discover an Aladdin’s cave of shops all selling everything you need if you are on the road – and at good prices since there is so much competition. Yep the Retiro area is noisy and dirty but oh so exciting as people hustle to earn a living selling nick knacks on the streets or just waiting for their bus to come to take them home or visit loved ones. The café and bars are full of people noisly talking, arguing shouting or just being romantic with each other. As they say all life is here – go and have a peek go on just do it!

I sometime have to catch a bus to La Margarita and its Retiro that I get my bus from and every time I come here I love it. No I don’t want to live here in Retiro but I do every now and then want to soak up the atmosphere and remind myself that I am in South America. As I wait for my bus I love to see where the buses are going too or coming from. If you feel the impulse you may just find yourself on as bus leaving for Peru, Paraguay, Brazil, Uruguay, Bolivia or some other exotic location - oh how romantic – but if you do make sure you purchased a few sandwiches to eat on the way since the trip to Peru for instance takes a good three days.

On a final note from the coach station you can see the Big Ben look alike in Retiro Park that was put there they say to remind Argentines to be more punctual since they are notoriously late for everything – umm that didn’t work very well then did it.

Ok this is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho sitting in a bar in the chaos of Retiro and thoroughly enjoying it while I wait for my bus to take me to La Margarita and although its only 280 kilometres from here it’s a walk on the wild side apart from the lovely Margarita. Go on take your walk on the wild side when you get here - you will love it but then come to La Margarita so you can get over the experience.

Saludos
David Cummings

Taxes, Tips, Tricks and Radio Shows

( picture is left to right Paul, Robin and daugher , DJ Tara (alias Pearl) and Lalo. (Feb 2009)

Before anything else I want to give a plug for a guest who was recently on La Margarita. It’s a happiness plug. I have often mentioned in previous blogs about what makes people happy and that once we had a vote with guests on La Margarita about who was the happiest person in the world - Sir Keef of Richard won it – he of the ageing but wonderful Rolling Stones, because he was, and is, doing exactly what he wants to do – sheer bliss. Last week on La Margarita we had a Tara Gleeson ( she's in the picture above ) staying along with her man Paul. Now Tara hosts a show on the Radio on Sundays in Dublin. When Tara talked about her show her face lit up and as she talked you could see that the show was something that makes her happy happy happy. She gets to play what music she likes and gets to do something she loves. A cue for instant happiness - so watch out Keef you got competition.
Ok Tara (or Pearl as she is know on the Radio) is back on air in Dublin next week her show is 11am-1pm am on Sundays and the link is http://www.phantom.ie/. I am sure it’s a great show, have a listen.
It’s great meeting so many different people on La Margarita. I get to learn small but fascinating facts from guests who come to stay with us. For instance recently we had Genevieve with her young daughter who stayed for a week on La Margarita. Genevieve comes from New Zealand and told me that in New Zealand the wages in her country were high enough so that it eliminated tipping. Now nothing is more controversial than leaving tips – some hate it while some are happy to do it. For those on the receiving end it can be the difference between a decent salary and a meagre one. Seems in NZ they have solved the problem. Next time I am in a black cab in London I will mention the NZ system to the driver – course I may find I get an ear full but it will be worth it for a laugh.
Another fascinating fact came from Mexico. We organise partridge hunting on La Margarita in the hunting season from May - July. We often have groups from Mexico come to hunt here so I asked one Mexican (who himself owns enough land to form his own Switzerland in Mexico) why come all the way to Argentina to hunt partridges? and he replied “simple, we don’t have any in Mexico” – funny I never thought about that, duh.
The last but still fascinating fact for today is something an Argentine couple told me recently which is amazing for its audacity. It seems that when De La Rue, the Mayor of Buenos Aires in the early 1990s, (who later became the country’s President from 1998 -2001) decided that the city needed to raise some money he increased city tax and back dated it for 5 years - ok that hurts but wait there’s more, he then decided that he would fine the good citizens of BA and charge them interest since they had paid it late!! WHAT what what but but but excuse me I never!!!!?????$$$~####
Have fun and look out for more fascinating facts from La Margarita in my future blogs

I just want to finish by saying thank you both Robin and Sharon for coming to La Margarita and Sharon many many thanks for the Sunday Times and defcaf tea !! you may laugh but in the pampas these things don't exit and are much appreciated

This is David Cummings alias the English Gaucho just off for a bike in the cooling evening before opening a nice bottle of Malbec on the patio – lovely

David Cummings

La Margarita – a Star of the TV again (with guest appearances from Lalo, Jack and Tapalque)

1. ( Jam session on La Margarita with Raquel one of our musical guests)
   
   When I was a young musician there was a television programme called "Search for a Star”. It was a talent show (I use the term loosely) and I must confess that, along with my then band mates, we appeared on it and did quite well playing a song we had written. Ironically there was a woman called Sheila Ferguson from a group called the 3 Degrees on the panel(if you are a Brit you may have heard of her she was pretty famous in her time) – she said she hated our song and we told her we didn’t like hers either – you really can’t please them all eh? It’s a funny old world though because a year later we were supporting the 3 Degrees on a week’s tour and we played the same song that she had disliked so much, and she didn’t talk to us again after that. No hard feelings then Sheila!
   
   It wasn’t the only talent show we went on, it was always fun and we even won a few, believe it or not. That was years ago now of course, these days it’s all X Factor, Britain’s got Talent and Simon blooming Cowell all over the place (only jealous) – how life has changed.
   
   Now the star of my life is La Margarita. Since I have owned it we have had four TV crews come and film La Margarita for documentaries on gauchos, life in the pampas and life in a traditional town in the countryside. The latest crew came the second week in January 2009. The 10 minute film was broadcast (along with my slightly unkempt haircut, why is a good hairdresser so hard to find?) last week on Argentine National TV and is now available to view in glorious Technicolor on the internet.
   
   I asked the crew why they chose to film in Tapalque and on La Margarita. They said it was because this area is like stepping back in time – it’s a life that has all but disappeared close to BA and that they wanted to show how life really is in the Argentine pampas. They said that it’s a life that one day may disappear here too but that for now it’s going strong and they wanted to show this - small provincial towns where people still leave their doors open, their keys in their cars and where people make time to talk to one another and where estancias thrive keeping the true spirit of the countryside and gaucho life alive (many estancias have, sadly, been turned into country clubs) .
   
   I understand what they say because one of the reasons I purchased an estancia this distance from BA was because it was far enough out of BA to really feel as though we are truly detached from the city. Those guests that have come to visit us come mostly come for that very reason too. I for one think it is going to stay that way for a long time yet. Those guests who are looking for more a commercial side to estancia tourism tend to go to one of the estancias just outside BA. Guests that I asked “why did you chose to come to La Margarita” in the main said that they were looking for somewhere on the road less travelled in Argentina to use a famous book title – a place they could unwind and recharge –and of course to ride horses, drink delicious malbec wine and dine on great steak. Many told me it’s exactly what they found here.
   
   In the short film it’s not only La Margarita that’s a star but our very own Lalo (one of our horse riding gauchos who works on La Margarita) who goes some way to upstaging the lovely Margarita. Have a look at Lalo’s method for getting on his horse (just don’t try it at home please) – its pure magic. Of course those that have stayed with us will have seen him do it before but it’s the first time he has done it for the TV. Also Jack our young pointer dog decided he didn’t want to be left out and makes an appearance as I am being interviewed bless him.
   
   For those of you who have never been to us before the documentary gives you glimpse of what Tapalque and the surrounding area is like and of course La lovely Margarita.
   
   Here is the link if you have time look at it - I really hope that you enjoy it.
   
   http://www.elatajotv.com.ar/PGM_Nro_62/pgm2.php
   
   Meanwhile, if you are in the UK, my friends there tell me that there was an interesting programme on BBC2 at the weekend about Argentina – you can watch it again on the iplayer at
   http://www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00hcgtq/Explore_Patagonia_to_the_Pampas/
   and there is another programme on this Thursday (again on BBC2) titled Argentina’s Dirty War – that aims to tell some of the history of this beautiful, but at times troubled, country. Catch them all if you can!
   
   Saludos cordials,
   
   David Cummings
   
   Estancia La Margarita
   Tapalque
   Argentina
   
   
   
   
   

Five things to avoid doing in Argentina (including talking about “The Hand of Rod”!)

Piture is of Alan and Mary from Switzerland riding on La Margarita - Alan riding for the very first time (16.01.09)

Being a Brit and living in Argentina there are two very obvious subjects us ex pats normally try to avoid. If you are a Brit reading this you will probably have a good idea which two subjects they are:

La Guerra de Malvinas (but to us Brits the Falklands War) is one.

Certainly not Maggie’s finest hour indeed if she even had any at all! “la guerra de Malvinas ” as it’s known here is a subject which gets mentioned every time there is an election where the new powers to be resort to telling the public that one way or another they will reclaim the forgotten islands – well, forgotten by most Brits that is. The reality is that in my years living here I have only ever had one episode which led me to believe that the Argentine person talking to me didn’t like the fact that I was a Brit because of the war– at the time I was in a cab and the driver must have somehow realised that I was a Brit and I starting to hear him mention Las Malvinas – by the tone of his voice it was pretty clear he wasn’t happy. Problem was I couldn’t speak Spanish at the time so I had no idea if he was unhappy with me or with the Argentine Military Government who sent totally unprepared solders to a war they had no hope of winning. Nothing happened to me and we parted amicably. However no matter what one thinks of the war it is obviously better not to mention it – it still has painful memories for those who suffered in this shameful event.

The Hand of God:

If the Argentine person talking to you realises you are a Brit he will mercilessly tease you about the infamous goal that made a mockery of fair play in the game of football . Your Argentine companion will tease you mercifully about the event asking you while flapping his hand in the air “y la hand of god”? obviously referring to Maradona’s most famous football moment (YouTube it if you don’t know what it is – it is disgraceful!!)– well at least to us Brits. I have managed to deflect the teasing these days by pretending I never heard of it and pretending not to understand what they are talking about by saying I don’t know any Rod - who is he, what did he do, is he Argentine?! – it sort of works, and at least gets the other person so confused that they drop the subject. Of course in reality we Brits know every slow motion movement into the build up to that fatal goal as its gets analysed every time we meet Argentina in a game. The sad thing about that goal (I use the word loosely), is that Maradona’s second goal in that game probably was the best goal ever scored in World Cup game – voted number one by none other than the Brits ( who said we don’t believe in fair play?) and it is that goal that my Argentine friends should be bragging about, because, no doubt about it, it’s a magical moment in the beautiful game – YouTube it and see how Maradona single handedly beat almost the entire English team ( after having beaten the ref with the first goal!) in scoring that goal and in doing so broke the hearts of us poor English fans – shame on you England grrrrrr

Ok, these two subjects apart what other tricky things should you not do when you visit this beautiful country?

First I would like to say that as in every country there are things to avoid and there are always people who will look to take advantage of you if you are a tourist, but and it’s a big but, it’s no worse than in most countries and you will probably feel safer here than in your own country – unless you live in Iraq (only joking!) So don’t have any fears about visiting us here - you will love it and almost certainly nothing bad (apart from drinking too much malbec wine and eating too much delicious steak) will happen to you. The things “not to do “will just make your stay even more comfortable.

Five not to do in Argentina

Don’t change 100 pesos notes with cab drivers. Your taxi driver will have collected a number of fake notes that he will want to unload asap – your 100 peso note gives him a great opportunity to do just that – try to give the taxi driver the right money – deal done

Don’t tip too high. In this I am referring to Americans who, as I have learned from the many that have come to La Margarita, in the USA tipping has now reached 20%. Not so in Argentina between 5-10% is ok and if the service is bad please don’t tip – it’s that simple. As regards taxis – there is no need to tip – just round up to the nearest peso is fine.

Don’t change money at the change house as you get your luggage in Ezieza – it’s a rip off! If you really need to change money before leaving the airport as you get into the main hall after clearing customs go to your right and you will see a change house and you will get a much better rate

Don’t drive without a licence –its illegal. I have faced the long arm of the law here by driving without my licence and I got a fine for my troubles.

Don’t take out all 100 note pesos from the ATM machine. There is a real shortage of change here and you will sometime find it difficult to change 100 peso notes. To get some change ask for say 490 pesos in the ATM – most machines will give up that – if they don’t find one that does – it will give you 400 pesos in 100 notes and 90 invaluable smaller notes . While we are on the subject of change you will find that we have a real shortage of small coin change here – if you get some guard it with your life - you will need it. You will also be asked at all shops etc if you have the exact money - tell them no and see what happens – if they refuse your purchase because you don’t have the right money it’s time to give up some of your jealously guarded change – if not you will get some more change – guard it! It is reckoned that companies such as the buses are charging up to 10% to customers who want to buy small change – you have been warned.

That’s it – oh, I nearly forgot there is a sixth thing - please don’t forget to come to Estancia La Margarita por favour.

This is David Cummings alias The English Gaucho writing this on a wonderfully lovely day sitting by the pool on Las Margarita – what a life.

Saludos

David Cummings